The SF Chronicle considers restaurant dress codes:
"There used to be a certain style here. It wasn’t that button-down New
York banker style; it was a more causal look. Men wore blazers and a nice pair
of slacks." But these days, says (Doug) Biederbeck, San Francisco style might more
aptly be characterized as "super sloppy."
Hubert Keller, chef-owner of the four-star Fleur de Lys, says he has all
but given up enforcing a dress code. "We usually tell our guests that jackets
are appreciated and ties are optional," Keller says, but he concedes that he
rarely turns away diners because of the way they’re dressed. "Unless they show
up in T-shirts and shorts, we seat them."
San Francisco, of course, isn’t the only city where sartorial standards
have slipped. Charlie Trotter, the Chicago chef whose namesake restaurant is
considered one of the finest in the nation, says it’s a trend that is vexing
upscale restaurants from coast to coast.
The problem is a mix of changing attitudes and a struggling economy meaning less power to restaurants:
"The competition is a lot more tight now," says (Roland) Passot. "You can’t afford
to turn people away."
Passot recalls one hot summer day when a man hosting a party of six
showed up at La Folie in shorts. Rather than turn the party away, he seated
them as quickly and inconspicuously as possible. The man ended up spending
about $3,000, or nearly $500 per person.
"Maybe he was just coming off the golf course and didn’t have time to
change," Passot says. "Or maybe he was a guy with a lot of money who thought
he could buy the world. If we turned him away he would have just gone to
another restaurant.
"We don’t want people saying, ‘We went to La Folie and they had a snobby
French attitude.’ "
The article got me to thinking my attitudes towards dining out and dressing. Dressing up is fun sometimes, but even the more expensive restaurants don’t feel like they’re worth the effort of dressing up. Too many are too crowded and too loud to feel like I’m having the kind of special experience that warrants that extra care. There are restaurants here that feel that special, like Jardinare or Chez Panisse, but anyplace large enough to serve more than a hundred people at once just can’t manage that kind of atmosphere no matter how high the prices or how many trendy ingredients are named on the menu.
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